There’s something comforting about a Saturday night in a Mississippi catfish house. The smell of catfish frying and the familiar buzz of friendly voices make you feel as if you’re exactly where you are supposed to be at that moment.

My wife and I were at Cuevas Fish House in Purvis after a full day of football viewing, but this time, it wasn’t the catfish or hush puppies that caught my attention. It was the busser.

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ROBERT ST. JOHN is a restaurateur, chef, author and travel host. Find his recipes at robertstjohn.com.

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